Boot construction



Feb. 5, 1946. Q EARL 2,394,433

BOOT CONSTRUCTION Filed July 21, 1944 fjjiitjjjjii w Paul D.Ea,r

Patented Feb. 5, 1946 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 1 Claim.

The invention relates to boots and shoes for wear in extremely cold weather, wherein a certain degree of insulation of the foot from external low temperature air is incorporated. It is a particular aim of the invention to present a boot which may he slipped on over ordinary shoes, and particularly one which may be embodied in the form suitable for womens wear over high-heeled shoes, while retaining all the advantages of heat insulation and comfort at frigid temperatures.

It is a particular aim of the invention to improve the method of manufacture of shoes, to the end that high efficiency in heat insulation, accompanied by a maximum durability and good appearance may be attained. A particular purpose of the invention is to attain a high degree of flexibility in a shoe of this type, so that the wearer may enjoy walking in comfort with a minimum liability of stumbling or exhaustion due to the quality of the shoe.

One of the most important aims of the invention is to enable the production of such a shoe at a reasonable cost, shoes of this type having heretofore been high in cost, because of the complicated procedures in production, most of the cost being absorbed by labor. By simplifying production procedure and construction of my shoe,

it has been found possible to greatly lower the cost of producing a shoe of a given good appearance, wearing quality, and warmth, which may be sold at a substantially lower figure than prior production of corresponding quality as to materials, appearance, and wear,

Additional objects, advantages and features of invention reside in the construction, combination and arrangement of parts and method of procedure in relation thereto, as will be more readily understood from the following description and accompanying drawing, wherein Figure 1 is a perspective view of a shoe constructed in accordance with my invention, with the toe portion cut oflE in a plane at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the shoe, so as to show the shoe in cross section.

Figure 2 is an enlarged cross sectional view of the shoe adjacent the ball of the foot thereof.

Figure 3 is a similar view at an earlier stage of manufacture. I

Figure 4 is a fragmentary cross section at the lower side seam of the shoe.

Figure 5 is a fragmentary view at the side seam.

Referring more particularly to the drawing and procedure in production of the shoe, it may be said that, in effect, a sock lining is first stitched into the shoe vamp, quarter and the upper H! of the shoe. The vamp II and quarter 12 are joined conventionally, with a taped seam I 3 at the junction of the upper and quarter. The lateral half of the vamp portion is preferably formed integrally with the quarter I2 at respective sides,.

and the two vamp portions joined at a middle seam l4 extending longitudinally over the toe. The lining I5 is attached and similarly divided in the vamp and toe of the shoe, and this seam is preferably left open until after a top sole, insole and outsole have been attached, after assembly of the lining pieces l5 along the vamp, toe and quarter.

Before lasting, after assembly of the upper as indicated, an insole l1 forming a part of the lining, is stitched to the upper, simultaneously with the application of a binding strip or sheath I 8. As shown, the lining l5 and insole I! are formed of fleece sheepskin, suitably sheared, with the fibers presented toward the inside of the shoe. In the attachment of the insole and binding strip I8 together with the vamp II and quarter l2 and lining IS, the latter having been already attached at the seam I3 and along the seam l6, if desired, or this attachment omitted until after attachment of the insole, according to the preferred steps of procedure. The parts are laid together as shown in Figure 4, the edges of the lining l5, vamp H and quarter l2 being alined. One longitudinal edge of the binder strip is laid with its finished side against the outer faces of the vamp and quarter with its lower edge alined with the edges of the lining and vamp. The insole I! may be similarly alined with the first three pieces, but the lower edge projects slightly, as shown in Figure 4. The four pieces are then stitched together by stitching I6 close along the alined edges of the binder l8, vamp ll, quarter l2 and lining [5. This completes the sock with the vamp and quarter attached. The middle seam l6 of the vamp may be tacked temporarily, and the shoe lasted, which brings it to the form illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 without the lower sole portions, and with the binder l8 unattached and unshaped. The exposed under side of the insole I1 is now coated with a suitable adhesive, and a thick midsole IQ of felt or other good insulating material of a flexible nature and of suitable thickness, previously coated with a stiff cement is applied, as shown in Figure 3, and it may be put under suitable pressure to effect a good union, if desired. Thereafter, and while the shoe is still lasted, additional adhesive is applied to the edges and under-face of the mid-sole. In order to form the shoe with an appearance of a welt and more pronoimced thickness in the upper edge of the binding it, the projecting portion it of the insole i1 is turned upwardly to overlie the lower edge portion of the binder it, where it may be secured by adhesive or otherwise, or it may be stitched in position simultaneously with the stitching together of the lining vamp and binder as shown in Figure 5. Thereafter, the binder is pulled downwardly, as in Figure 3 and inlasted over the midsole it, as shown at 20 and pressed against the mid-sole, when it will have the appearance showninl igureagivingagoodnnishtothe sole of the shoe, as well as adding security to the seam between the insole and the upper of the shoe. A further application of adhesive is then made throughout the lower exposed surfaces of the mid-sole and lasted over the portion 20, and an out-sole 2| such as crepe rubber, other composition, or leather, isapplied and maintained under suitable pressure for a time, in the position and shape shown in Figures 1 and 2.

The midsole is may be'of uniform thickness throughout, extending from the heel portion of the shoe to-the toe-tip, and the out-sole 2| may likewise be of uniform thickness from heel to toe, although other practices may be carried out in accordance with conventional practices,.ineluding a thinning of the sole at the shank, and

if desired, a thickening thereof, as well as a thickening of the mid-sole and instep portion, in case the boot is to be worn without shoes inside.

asomss The binder strip ll is preferably of a very thin flexible leather, and the felt I! likewise readily flexible. When rubber composition is used in After emplacement of the out-sole as shown, the

tacking at the seam It may be removed, and the shoe unlasted, and placed upon a stitching machine by which a line of stitches 22 is formed through the out-sole, the mid-sole, and in-sole, extending throughout the length and width of the shoe in close parallel relation to the outer edge of the sole 2|. Thereafter, the seam l8 may be permanently closed, and may have a tape 23 applied thereover, as an effective closure, although other practices may be carried out as found desirable. The front and upper may be laced or closed by other convenient means, as desired.

From the foregoing, it will be seen that the complete assembly of the insole, mid-sole and stitching operations, without the use of the conventional welt, and having other advantages,

some of which will be explained.

the sole II, it will be readily appreciated that the entire sole, including the insole and outsole, constitute a highly flexible body, the mid sole being longitudinally compressible'and extensible with a minimum of opposition under bending of the out-sole, so that great flexibility is attained in that respect. Also, due to the thin leather used in'the binder strip l8, this does not have any stiffening-effect.

It should be noted that owing to the high cushion value of the mid-sole It, the stitching 22 holding the latter to the out-sole,- does not tend to cause a stiffening of the out-sole, as would be the case where denser materials such as leather, leather composition, paper and other dense materials are used.

I have disclosedmy invention with particularity in the best form known to me, but it will, nevertheless, be understood that this is exemplary, and that modifications in the constructiornarrangement and combination of parts, substitution of materials and equivalents, structural and otherwise, may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, within thevscope of the appendedclaim, wherein I claim:

A footwear of the character described comprising an upper having a lining therewithin, the edges of the lining and upper being flush and attached together, an insole arranged transverselyof the lower edges of the upper and lining and having a portion projected therebeyond, a binder strip laid externally edge to edge with said upper and lining, the projected edge portion of said insole being overlaid upon the edges of the upper,

lining and binder strip and these'parts connected together by a line of stitching inwardly of the lower edges of the lining, upper and said binder strip throughout the contour of the insole, a mid-sole of heat-insulating materialadhesively secured upon the outer surface'of said insole, the free edge of said binder being laid inwardly under said mid-sole, and an out-sole laid under the mid-sole overlying the free edge of said binder strip, and a line of stitches formed through the out-sole, the binder strip, mid-sole and insole.

PAUL D. EARL. 

